Printing out the images for a good representation gets a bit tricky, and theFormat problems are exactly why I'm creating a pdf. The pdf pages will contain more information than most printers will handle but it is a simple process to set the proper resolution to print. (see below) Dropping information is not a real destructive process. It is always much worse extrapolating a higher resolution from a lower resolution image - you're adding information which just isn't there.
sids themselves cannot be easily handled by widely used programs. The sids
also contain a lot more information than any standard printer can handle.
The shop over here thinks they have one laser than can do a true 4800 dpi,All these issues are solved by the properly formed pdf. I have already taken into account the optimum print ready quality for just this situation. I won't go into the details, but information loss is reduced by knowing what your final use will be. I'm optimizing for high screen resolution. Since the pdf is sized to scale, the print result will be just as you see it.
but their others are all 1200 dpi. Providing more information to their
printer than necessary relies on printer driven interpolation, and I'd
rather set this up myself so all pages are done exactly the same. The jpeg
files can be resized and still maintain 600 dpi resolution, perfect for just
about all inkjets, but not as high as I would like for a laser, so I'm
resizing the tiffs and setting their dpi information at 1200 before having
them printed so the printer prints 1 to 1. Their size is reduced
drastically when this operation is performed. I'm going to try to resize a
tiff for their 4800 dpi laser for comparison, but I don't think I'll be able
to tell any significant difference with the eye - maybe I'll be surprised.
Every operation with a tiff takes 5 minutes on my computer. :-(
You can't just choose an overall size and resize the images either. ThereI _am_ aligning and registering the pages! It is so much easier now that we have fairly clear detail of the back of each page due to translucence of the vellum and the quality of the images. Slight realignments and resizing are sometimes needed (though, I have noticed the MrSIDs are scaled virtually identically). Once I set the proper image size on the recto, I flip the verso, overlay it as a transparency and align the verso to the recto with a very high accuracy.
is extraneous space in the photographs on all sides. I'm having to trim at
least the left and right edges and use the coordinate/ruler function to get
matching recto/verso images. I use the center of the binding line for
reference, and choose a point on the edge of the page that can be measured
from both sides to make them match. Then one image has to be printed left
justified, and the other right justified so the binding line matches up on
both sides of the print. That way, the outer edges of the folio can be
trimmed later with an x-acto knife to conform with the odd shape of the
page, and they'll closely match up. One inch margins on either side leave
enough gutter for binding.
I can include a document file about optimizing for print and any other features I'll include in the pdf.None of this can be done precisely because the pages are not laying exactly flat in the photos, but it can be done closely to the original. This is probably a lot more trouble than most people are willing to go to, but something to consider if you're looking to make a printable facsimile of your own, or simply looking to include only the information that can be properly handled by a standard printer.
______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, send mail to majordomo@xxxxxxxxxxx with a body saying: unsubscribe vms-list